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Saturday 10 November 2007

Ferrari 308 annual service and MOT

Annual service and MOT by Nick Cartwright. Engine oil change, fluids check. Brake fluid change. Also replaced the top hose on oil cooler as it was showing signs of failure. Included transport to and from NC’s

Friday 10 August 2007

Replacing Ferrari 308 GT4 header tank

Noticed leak from the top of the header tank – rusted through from the inside:


Secret bolt behind the tank which is not visible but easy enough to reach once you know it's there


Ordered new aluminium tank from Superformance http://www.superformance.co.uk/a-308/cooling.htm £150

Emptied coolant to below tank level and replaced the tank. Easy job:


Sunday 15 July 2007

Ferrari 308 rear brake caliper problem and rebuild

Today whilst out driving I noticed a strange clunk when pulling the handbrake up then noticed brake fluid leaking from the handbrake lever on the top of the drivers side rear calliper:



Removed the caliper, top lever pulled out, (shouldn't have) popped the blanking plate out and the circlip had come off and the top seal had failed. Split the calliper (M7 torx drive, hardened bolts), pistons in perfect condition. Same callipers as the Porsche 914-6. Ordered new seals from Superformance including all calliper seals, and outer adjusting screw which was worn - cost £60. Everything cleaned and reassembled. Re-installed and bled, problem solved.

Sunday 15 April 2007

Ferrari 308 GT4 radiator repair

Warm spring weather 22° and after a long run spotted the main radiator leaking in two places at the top along the soldered joint - boo.


Removed the radiator by firstly removing the front bumper and fog lights then drilling out the pop rivets that hold the skid plate onto the front wings. This gives access to the bottom radiator hose. Had to disconnect the air-con hoses, noticed a lack of coolant in the A/C system.

Sent radiator to Dixon Radiator Repair in Denton, Manchester (0161 336 2705) - £40 for the resolder repair. Top and bottom front hoses in poor condition. Replaced with new 40mm ID silicone ones - £20

Cooling fans seem slow and wires are in poor condition. Stripped both fans down and rewired them. Fitted auxiliary fan cut in switched wired to fire the fan relays in the fuse box – simply earths the relay coil in the same way as the temp sensor switch.

Stripped down front bumper and paint and waxoyled behind to protect. Added stainless fasteners where removed.

Refitted the radiator, filled and bled the system – no leaks. On the test drive the car ran lumpy but fine after a stop and warmed up. Running hot at 95° on test run and it turned out that both fans were running but the wrong way! Re-connected them the correct way and problem solved.

Removed the rear bumper and painted and waxoyled as per the front.

Saturday 14 April 2007

Ferrari 308 fusebox problems

Main auxiliary fuse (indicators, etc.) #1 melted after a run out! Not the conductor but the plastic part of the fuse due to excessive heat across it caused by resistance at the terminals.


Example melted fuseblock - picture from www.birdmanferrari.com

Researched this on http://www.ferrarichat.com/ and it is a very common problem with the fuse box. Especially on the high current / always on applications such as aux systems, fuel pump! radiator fans. The fuse holders are riveted onto the spade terminals and the physical connection through the rivit deteriates. This encourages corrosion which in term increases resistance to cause a downward spiral of your 308 electrical system

Ordered myself a pair of famous Birdman fuse blocks with the glass type fuses and non riveted connections which took a few days to arrive and about 30 minutes to fit. Never seen an electrical gremlin since!

Also repaired O/S heater duct flap which stopped working, inner cable stiff. Dash removal easy, but access to cable and clamps difficult.

Wednesday 7 February 2007

Replacing the oil pressure sender on my 308

Replaced engine oil pressure sender unit (similar if not the same as Fiat 124) with new non genuine from Superformance.

Did not need to remove the oil filter or housing as expected. Removed the oil cooler hose and brake vacuum hose and ground down a spanner to undo the oil pressure sender unit and retighten the new one. No oil came out of the system at all, so it was a pretty easy job in the end. New reading on the dashboard gauge is now smooth and by the book 85psi at temp and revs :)